The Surfer’s Library

S2E1: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel Chapter 1 - 3

Billy Jack kicks off summer 2026 and season 2 of the podcast reading Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. This episode we read chapters one through three. Make sure you come back each episode as we are going to read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com.If you want to help support the podcast you can visit https://buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so.

S1E14: The Last Wave by Greg Noll and Andrea Gabbard

Today Billy Jack reads The Last Wave by Greg Noll and Andrea Gabbard from the book The Big Drop edited by John Long. In 1969 Greg Noll took off on one of the biggest waves ever at Makaha and nearly died in the process. After barely surviving the wipeout, he realized he’d pushed it as far as he could and decided to walk away from big-wave surfing for good. This is the story.

History of Surfing: Chapter 3 – Malibu Swing, 1945 to Late 1950s, Part 2

Today we wrap up part two in a supersized episode in which Billy reads the second half of Chapter 3: Malibu Swing 1945 - late 1950s from Matt Warshaw's The History of Surfing. We pick up with Dewey Weber, Tubesteak Tracy and Miki Dora as they define the 50's surfer style... Enjoy!

History of Surfing: Chapter 3 – Malibu Swing, 1945 to Late 1950s, Part 1

Today in part one of a two part series Billy reads the first half of Chapter 3: Malibu Swing 1945 - late 1950s from Matt Warshaw's The History of Surfing. The History of Surfing is a comprehensive and meticulously researched chronicle that explores surfing's evolution from its ancient Polynesian origins to its modern global presence. Richly illustrated with over 250 rare photographs, the book offers an authoritative and engaging narrative that delves into the cultural, historical, and technical aspects of the sport.

The Last of the Golden Years in Surfing: Stories by Waterman Conrad Louis Canha, Part 2

Today Billy continues reading from ​Francine Park Palama's book: The Last of the Golden Years in Surfing: Stories by Waterman Conrad Louis Canha. The book is a collection of stories by legendary surfer Conrad Louis Canha, who is credited with founding the "Hot-Dog" style of surfing. In this book, Canha shares his experiences and adventures that significantly influenced and revolutionized surf culture. *Please forgive my haole pronunciations of the Hawaiian language.

The Last of the Golden Years in Surfing: Stories by Waterman Conrad Louis Canha, Part 1

Today Billy reads from ​Francine Park Palama's book: The Last of the Golden Years in Surfing: Stories by Waterman Conrad Louis Canha. The book is a collection of stories by legendary surfer Conrad Louis Canha, who is credited with founding the "Hot-Dog" style of surfing. In this book, Canha shares his experiences and adventures that significantly influenced and revolutionized surf culture.

The South Swell

This episode Billy reads The South Swell, the first chapter from the book Big Wednesday by Denny Aaberg and John Milius.

Aloha Mike Hynson and Dale Dobson

In this special episode we bid farewell to two surfing greats, Mike Hynson and Dale Dobson.

In The Beginning by Ricky Grigg

Today Billy Jack reads a story told by pioneer big wave surfer Ricky Grigg from the book The Big Drop edited by John Long.

Modern Surfing Around The World: Part 1

Today Billy Jack reads Part 1 of John Severson‘s 1964 book Modern Surfing Around The World.